Day 18 Jasper

With some regret we left Banff this morning. We wondered whether or not we would get tired of looking at the mountains if we actually lived here. We agreed that we didn’t think it was possible to ever look at those mountains, no matter how many times you’d seen them, and not be in awe of their splendor. We noticed while we were in Banff, each time you ventured out, we were surrounded by people from all over the world. So nice to think that Canada is a destination clearly appreciated everywhere, interesting though that many of the folks working in Banff were Australian. I finally had to ask one waitress about the observation. According to her, Canada was known as the preferred destination by the youth in Australia to find work?? Funny perception, but there it is.

Shortly after leaving the town of Banff behind and heading onto the Icefields Parkway, it became very tough to regret any decision that led us here. Banff National Park runs into Jasper National Park and an incredible beauty is shared throughout the entire stretch of land. As we catch our first sight of the many glaciers that punctuate the landscape I am struck by a recurring theme. Every time I think I have seen the most spectacular thing ever, we navigate a bend I the road that proves me wrong. I just cannot believe the heart stopping vistas that surround us – making us feel incredibly insignificant and astonishingly blessed all at the same time. The Crowfoot Glacier with the first toe now sadly receded, nonetheless steadfast in its presence; the Bow Glacier feeding beautiful Bow Lake like countless rivers, lakes and streams that fill this rugged land all fed by ancient glacial waters; the mountains, tops hiding in the clouds; the fingers of vegetation stretching up to the peaks, never quite making it, evidence of the harshness of this land where avalanches are so common place that the road signs are permanent reminders of the danger that awaits the traveler not respectful of the power of the mountain – it all waited patiently around each and every corner to amaze and enchant.

Mountains in the clouds.

Every stretch of road is incredible.

The amount of snow on the mountains is surprising as we drive along in temperatures of 22.

Just another random car shot!

The lakes range from emerald to teal coloured.

As we reached the top of our first mountain pass we stopped for lunch. It was completely unbelievable. It felt like being at the top of the world, surrounded by waterfalls, mountain peaks and countless visual treasures.

This road around the mountain is as crazy at it looks!

Bridal Falls - the picnic stop at the top of the pass.

Fragile beauty thrives, even in this harsh environment.

The wildlife also became even more evident as black bears, mountain goats, deer, and elk all appeared at our roadside. These were amazingly beautiful in their natural setting but pointed to the need to take very seriously the warning signs that pepper the highway, reminding drivers to slow down and watch for animals. They have an elaborate system of animal overpasses though. They have motion sensor cameras to monitor their usefulness. Since their inception in 1996, not only have 220,000 animals crossed and the number of vehicle-animal highway accidents decreased, they also have captured some cool animal shots that are posted throughout the park.

Wildlife crossing ...

Elk on the roadside. One of countless wildlife sightings.

When we reached the Athabasca Glacier we simply had to stop to explore more fully. With Cecilia in a baby carrier and all of us bundled against the cold, we set out to climb to the glacier. The terrain was nothing like I expected. Much more like I imagine the surface of the moon than anything else, the environment is stark and harsh. The air is thin at these altitudes and the climb, while significant, involved considerably more huffing and puffing at these heights!

Starting the hike to the Athabasca Glacier - like a walk on the moon!

Jeffrey, Nancy and Cecilia at the foot of the glacier.

Cecilia and Grandpa snuggle to keep warm.

As we move further north the mountains tend to become rounder and more colourful.

Cecilia continues to be an absolutely angel and is always ready for the next great adventure. Nancy and Jeffrey are so willing to embark on any exploration and Cecilia always rises to the occasion. In a never ending quest to simplify life on the road, we decided today to try Cecilia with a baby cereal cookie. Our mealtimes are often irregular but it certainly isn’t fair to make her wait. So today she enjoyed (and she did that!) her first “cookie” in Grandpa’s truck.

 

After dinner we went into the nearest town to have a look around. The Beaver Boardwalk had been recommended as a spot worth checking. The local pulp and paper company built a boardwalk trail around a wetland that has been the home to beavers for the last 20 years. As I’ve said before, folks in Alberta know how to do it up right. This place was amazing. The birds and wetland plants were plentiful along the 3km trail. The opportunity to see beavers was incredible! Without doing anything other than stroll the boardwalk pushing a stroller we saw 7 beavers – close-up and personal! They were working away, as beavers do, unbothered by our presence just feet away. I wish I could include the video that Jeffrey captured of the 23kg beaver working! My pictures will just have to do.

One of 7 beaver sightings.